Guest blog written by Amy Margolis.
David and I spent eight days exploring the central section of Alta Via 2 in the Dolomites, starting at Passo Gardena and finishing in San Martino di Castrozza. Our itinerary combined via ferratas and summit scrambles with mountain rifugios, a little hotel luxury, and cable cars to reduce some of the descending.
There were tiny summits, rocky plateaus, green valleys and some of the most spectacular mountain views of our trip. There was also rain, snow on the high peaks, a weather-related change of route and one five-mile day that was harder than anything its distance suggested.
This Alta Via 2 trip report follows the route we actually completed, including the changes we made along the way. If you are planning an eight-day Alta Via 2 itinerary from Passo Gardena to San Martino di Castrozza, it offers a personal look at the terrain, accommodation and decisions behind each day.
A note about this route
This is a personal account of a customised central-section itinerary, rather than the complete Alta Via 2. Our route included via ferratas, exposed unprotected trails, loose scree and scrambling. Check current conditions and route requirements, carry appropriate equipment and choose terrain suited to your skills and experience. Consider a qualified local guide for technical sections.
Our eight-day Alta Via 2 itinerary at a glance
- When we hiked: September 2026
- Duration: Eight days, including a summit circuit from Passo Gardena on Day 1
- Start: Passo Gardena
- Finish: San Martino di Castrozza
- Direction: Southbound through the central section
- Accommodation: A mix of private rooms, shared bunk rooms and hotels
- Technical highlights: Pitla Cir, Gran Cir, Piz Boè and Sentiero delle Farangole
- Transport: A bus and cable car on Day 2, a cable car descent on Day 3, and lifts down to San Martino on Day 8
Planned versus completed
Our original plan included Via Ferrata Pisciadù, but rain and a high risk of thunderstorms changed Day 2. We travelled by bus to Passo Pordoi and took the Sasso Pordoi cable car before hiking to our booked rifugio. We had also decided against the Marmolada summit and via ferrata. These are planned options we did not complete, rather than experiences described in this report.
Read our original daily trip reports
For the original photos and accounts from the trail, here are all eight daily reports on Instagram.
- Day 1: Pitla Cir and Gran Cir from Passo Gardena
- Day 2: A weather change and the climb to Piz Boè
- Day 3: Piz Boè to Rifugio Castiglioni Marmolada
- Day 4: A birthday hike to Rifugio Contrin
- Day 5: Rifugio Contrin to Passo San Pellegrino
- Day 6: Passo San Pellegrino to Rifugio Mulaz
- Day 7: Sentiero delle Farangole to Rifugio Rosetta — including the continuation in the comments
- Day 8: Cima della Rosetta and San Martino di Castrozza
| Day | Route completed | Overnight |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Passo Gardena → Pitla Cir → Gran Cir → Jimmi Hütte → Passo Gardena | Rifugio Frara |
| 2 | Bus to Passo Pordoi → Sasso Pordoi cable car → Rifugio Boè → Piz Boè | Rifugio Capanna Piz Fassa |
| 3 | Piz Boè → Sasso Pordoi cable car descent → Viel del Pan → Lago di Fedaia | Rifugio Castiglioni Marmolada |
| 4 | Rifugio Castiglioni Marmolada → Alba-Penia → Rifugio Contrin | Rifugio Contrin |
| 5 | Rifugio Contrin → Passo delle Cirelle → Rifugio Fuciade → Passo San Pellegrino | Hotel Costabella |
| 6 | Passo San Pellegrino → Passo Valles → Trail 751 → Rifugio Mulaz | Rifugio Mulaz |
| 7 | Rifugio Mulaz → Forcella Margherita → Sentiero delle Farangole → Rifugio Rosetta | Rifugio Rosetta |
| 8 | Rifugio Rosetta → Cima della Rosetta → cable car and gondola → San Martino di Castrozza | Hotel Centrale |
Our planned Alta Via 2 route and itinerary
These screenshots show our original eight-day plan in The Hiking Club itinerary planner. Weather changed the route we completed, particularly on Day 2.
Understanding the itinerary estimates
The estimated hiking times exclude breaks and are not our recorded walking times. Technical terrain, exposure, weather and route changes affected how each day unfolded.
Pitla Cir and Gran Cir from Passo Gardena
Rifugio Frara → Via Ferrata Pitla Cir → Via Ferrata Gran Cir → Jimmi Hütte → Rifugio Frara
We began with a summit circuit from Passo Gardena, returning to Rifugio Frara for the night. An easy uphill walk towards the Dantercepies lift became steeper and rockier as we approached Via Ferrata Pitla Cir.
Pitla Cir felt noticeably more challenging and exposed than Gran Cir. There were steeper, more adventurous sections, and the tiny summit did not leave much room to linger. We climbed Pitla Cir first, then made the short traverse towards Gran Cir.
Gran Cir felt more like a scramble with a few protected sections. After the summit, we continued to Jimmi Hütte for excellent food and drinks before walking back to Rifugio Frara. It was a memorable start, with two very different summit experiences in one day.
Changing our plan and climbing to Piz Boè
Rifugio Frara → bus to Passo Pordoi → Sasso Pordoi cable car → Trail 627A → Rifugio Forcella Pordoi → Trail 627 → Rifugio Boè → Trail 638 → Rifugio Capanna Piz Fassa
Clouds, rain and a high risk of thunderstorms meant this was not the day for our planned via ferrata and high alpine approach. Instead, we took a bus to Passo Pordoi and used the Sasso Pordoi cable car to reach the plateau.
From the cable car, a short downhill walk took us to Rifugio Forcella Pordoi. We chose the longer, lower approach via Rifugio Boè rather than the shorter, higher and more exposed alternative. There was one short cable section on the way to Boè, but the main challenge came afterwards.
The climb towards Piz Boè became steep and scree-filled, with protected sections and awkward steps before a final stretch over rock and boulders. Rifugio Capanna Piz Fassa, perched on the summit, was our destination.
The rifugio was simple: shared bunk rooms for three to six people and just one bathroom. The food was tasty and filling, and the staff were wonderfully friendly. It was a very different day from the one we had planned, but we still reached our mountain home for the night.
Piz Boè to Rifugio Castiglioni Marmolada via Viel del Pan
Capanna Piz Fassa → Trail 638 → Rifugio Forcella Pordoi → Sasso Pordoi cable car descent → Passo Pordoi → Rifugio Baita Fredarola → Rifugio Viel del Pan → Trail 601 → Rifugio Castiglioni Marmolada
After a stormy night, we woke to a wintry mix and strong winds. We were nervous about finding ice on the descent from Piz Boè. Thankfully, the trail was wet and slushy rather than icy, although it still demanded care.
There were steep stretches of scree and rock, three cable-assisted sections and metal ladder rungs. I actually found this higher route less steep and awkward than our ascent the previous day. After reaching the cable car, we rode down to Passo Pordoi.
A short, steep climb brought us to Rifugio Baita Fredarola, followed by much gentler walking towards Rifugio Viel del Pan. We stopped for a snack before continuing through green meadows.
The easy walking ended on Trail 601, where a steep, rocky descent led towards the lake. Rain made the built-in steps increasingly slippery, and everything was wet and muddy by the time we reached Rifugio Castiglioni Marmolada. Its characterful building, friendly staff, excellent pizza and free hot showers were exactly what we needed.
A birthday hike through Alba-Penia to Rifugio Contrin
Rifugio Castiglioni Marmolada → Trail 618 → Trail 605 → Alba-Penia → Trail 602 → Rifugio Contrin
It was my birthday, and snow covered the high peak of Marmolada. We had already decided against the summit climb and via ferrata, and the view that morning made us happy with that decision.
Instead, we descended into a valley that suddenly reminded us of the Pacific Northwest. Trail 618 was narrow, rocky and steep, leading to a stream crossing before joining the wider main trail. Trail 605 was generally smoother, with some steeper, rockier sections on the way down to Alba-Penia.
We stopped for a lovely birthday lunch at a local café, then started the climb towards Rifugio Contrin on Trail 602. The first section was steep and very rocky before the trail eased into a beautiful valley. One final climb brought us to the rifugio.
With several buildings, a small church and high mountains all around, Contrin looked exactly as I imagined a European mountain hut should. The welcoming staff, cosy beds and hot showers made it a wonderful place to finish my birthday hike.
Rifugio Contrin to Passo San Pellegrino via Passo delle Cirelle
Rifugio Contrin → Trail 607 → Passo delle Cirelle → Rifugio Fuciade → Passo San Pellegrino → Hotel Costabella
The day began with a demanding climb towards Passo delle Cirelle. It was steep, rocky and technical, but the views from the pass made the effort worthwhile.
The descent brought a different challenge: scree switchbacks followed by a large boulder field. Eventually the terrain eased, and we reached the green meadows around Rifugio Fuciade, with cows grazing and small cabins scattered across the landscape.
We stopped for lunch before following a wide, easy path gradually downhill to Passo San Pellegrino. Our accommodation that night, Hotel Costabella, felt wonderfully indulgent after the mountain huts.
The staff were friendly, the mountain setting was beautiful, and dinner was probably the fanciest meal we had eaten since getting married. A sauna and steam room in the wellness centre made the end of the day even better.
Passo San Pellegrino to Rifugio Mulaz
Hotel Costabella → Trail 658 → Passo Valles → Trail 751 → Rifugio Mulaz
After an excellent hotel breakfast, we climbed the ski slope, crossed the plateau and descended a broad gravel road to Passo Valles. We stopped for crêpes at Rifugio Passo Valles Hütte before the harder work began.
There was a long climb to the pass, a descent, and then more climbing towards Rifugio Mulaz. The final part was the most technical, with scrambling on both unprotected terrain and sections secured by cables. The mountain views around Mulaz were among the most spectacular we had seen on Alta Via 2.
Mulaz was a small, remote hut with friendly, welcoming staff. Our room was comfortable, and we were fortunate to have it to ourselves. Dinner and breakfast were less satisfying than the meals we had enjoyed elsewhere; breakfast was bread with jam or Nutella.
That modest breakfast would feel particularly significant the following morning, when we set off on the toughest day of our trip.
Rifugio Mulaz to Rifugio Rosetta via Sentiero delle Farangole
Rifugio Mulaz → Trail 703 → Forcella Margherita → Sentiero delle Farangole → Valle delle Galline → Rifugio Rosetta
These were the hardest five miles of our lives.
Leaving Mulaz, we traversed steep, eroded and exposed terrain before crossing a large scree field and climbing towards Sentiero delle Farangole. The protected section involved fixed cables, metal steps, ladders and scrambling through steep rock.
After the final ladder, we descended into loose scree, then took a wrong turn. We spent more than an hour heading in the wrong direction, adding extra climbing and descending before finding the route again.
Some of the most stressful terrain came after the junction at Bivacco Brunner. Long stretches of narrow, rocky trail crossed extremely exposed slopes. Cables protected some sections, but others were unprotected, with very little room for error. I found it deeply anxiety-inducing, and our progress was slow.
Even after that traverse, we still had roughly another mile and almost 1,000 feet of climbing and scrambling before reaching Rifugio Rosetta. We arrived exhausted and very hungry, ordered food immediately and spent the afternoon recovering.
The hut was comfortable and quiet, the food was good, and we enjoyed chatting with our bunkmates. During our stay there were no showers and the toilets were squat-style. With the cable car nearby, there were also plenty of day visitors.
This was the clearest reminder of the trip that distance alone says very little about the difficulty of an Alta Via 2 day. Exposure, loose terrain, route-finding and sustained concentration made those five miles feel enormous.
Cima della Rosetta and the descent to San Martino di Castrozza
Rifugio Rosetta → Cima della Rosetta → Funivia Rosetta → Cabinovia Colverde → Hotel Centrale, San Martino di Castrozza
Our last morning began with a short, steep climb to Cima della Rosetta. The summit gave us incredible views in every direction, taking in the surrounding mountains and the valley below.
Then we took the Rosetta cable car and Colverde gondola down to San Martino di Castrozza. Using the lifts gave us a gentle finish after the demanding previous day and avoided a long descent on foot.
We arrived before our room was ready, which left time for coffee, hot chocolate and strudel. The rest of the day involved wandering around town, lunch, gelato and very little that resembled hiking.
Hotel Centrale was comfortable and welcoming, with a great breakfast spread. San Martino was the perfect place to slow down before leaving the Dolomites. We were sad to say goodbye to the mountains, but ready to return to our own mountains—and our dog.
What this Alta Via 2 itinerary taught us
Leave room for the weather to change the plan
Our itinerary included technical routes and high summits, but we did not complete every planned option. Day 2 changed because of the rain and thunderstorm risk, and we had already decided against the Marmolada summit. Having another way to reach our accommodation helped us adapt.
Transport can reduce descending without removing every challenge
The cable car descent from Sasso Pordoi and the lifts into San Martino reduced our walking descents. However, steep trails remained part of the trip, including the descent towards Lago di Fedaia and the scree around the mountain passes. Lift access did not make the entire itinerary easy.
Short days can still be the hardest
The Mulaz-to-Rosetta stage was the strongest example. Its difficulty came from exposed terrain, scrambling, loose scree, navigation and the concentration needed to keep moving carefully. A distance figure or estimated walking time cannot fully communicate that experience.
Accommodation adds variety, but facilities differ
We combined private and shared accommodation, from simple summit bunks to hotels with wellness facilities. Capanna Piz Fassa had small shared rooms; at Mulaz we happened to have our room to ourselves; at Rosetta we shared with other hikers. Hot showers, meals and facilities varied considerably between stays.
Planning a similar trip?
Assess each stage for exposure, technical terrain, ascent and descent as well as distance. Confirm room types and hut facilities directly, check operating dates and times for any transport, and plan realistic alternatives before setting out.
Is this central Alta Via 2 itinerary right for you?
Our eight days brought together much of what makes hiking in the Dolomites special: dramatic peaks, welcoming rifugios, green valleys, summit views and the pleasure of arriving somewhere new each evening.
They also included serious exposure, scrambling and demanding mountain terrain. This was an adventurous itinerary that required more than fitness, and our experience would not suit every hiker looking for a hut-to-hut holiday.
For me, the contrast is what stays with me: a tiny summit above Passo Gardena, a stormy night on Piz Boè, birthday celebrations at Contrin, hotel comforts at San Pellegrino and the relief of finally reaching Rosetta. We finished with an extraordinary collection of memories—and a very clear understanding that flexibility belongs in the itinerary too.
About the author
Amy Margolis
Amy is a 2026 Trail Ambassador for The Hiking Club and an experienced multi-day hiker. She completed this central Alta Via 2 trip with her husband, David. Read her Brenta Dolomites hut-to-hut trip report for another personal account of hiking and via ferratas in the Dolomites.
Plan your own Alta Via 2 itinerary
Explore The Hiking Club’s Alta Via 2 resources to start planning a route around your hiking experience, preferred accommodation and time in the Dolomites.